Traveling extensively really comes down to a few factors: time, money, and willingness. If you’re willing, you are capable of creating the time and funds to take a trip. If I, the least motivated money maker on the planet, can scrape together enough cash to travel to 15+ countries, you can too. I absolutely despise money and trading my precious time for work (some people read this as being lazy, but I assure you I’m not), but travel motivates me to make paper. Traveling is a drug and I am in the throws of addiction. Life feels dull if I’m not exploring. Here’s how I motivate myself to maintain a life revolving around travel.
Sawatdee kah! Hello, from Chantaburi, Thailand! In an effort to make traveling a little less cumbersome, I left my laptop at home. Therefore all the shots below were taken and edited with my iPhone 6SE. Even from a professional photographer’s standpoint, it’s quite amazing what this smart phone can accomplish. Enjoy!
There are plenty of ways to travel abroad: trains, planes and buses are some of my favorite. In Nepal there are typically two viable options: a loooong bus ride or an often delayed flight. Today we’re going to look at the positives and negatives of both options that way when you come visit you’ll know exactly how you want to travel. Continue reading
Visiting ancient temples and beautiful mosques abroad is quite popular and enjoyable. It surprised me a little bit since I’m not religious at all, but it’s more of a cultural experience than a religious one. If you’re new to traveling or have never visited a temple abroad there are a few things you should know before you go. I’ve learned some tips and tricks along the way and thought it could be helpful to share them here. I feel so lucky to have visited dozens of religious sites in Thailand, Cambodia, Malaysia, Kathmandu, India and beyond. Read on to discover all the things I’ve learned along the way.
Some folks really dread flying. Usually it’s because of the jet lag and awful airplane food and while those things do stink you can still survive a fourteen hour flight with a smile. I know because I’ve experienced three extremely long flights to Asia all coming in at different levels on the comfort scale. If you’re prepping for a holiday overseas, here are a few tips that should make your time in the air a bit more enjoyable. Although, even I couldn’t prepare for the time I woke up with a baby sleeping on my tray table. Even so, here’s how to best survive an international flight and walk away with a smile.
Namaste from Nepal! I arrived in busy Kathmandu on Tuesday afternoon at which point I found a cozy little guesthouse in thamel and promptly went to sleep. I was so worn out from thirty-six hours of travel that I needed a long nap. I ended up sleeping from 6p.m. on Tuesday until 4 a.m. on Wednesday morning. When I woke up, I decided to go up to the rooftop garden to read until the sun came up. Later in the afternoon, I ended up wandering into another lovely garden that I enjoyed so much I spent four hours there.
The rooftop garden at my guesthouse is so quaint and beautiful that I had to share it here today. It is the perfect representation of so many small rooftop gardens all over the city of Kathmandu. While there is currently a broader initiative to promote vegetable rooftop gardening in Kathmandu, it is already widely popular to cover roofs with potted plants of all varieties. I most often see jade, spider, and coleus plants with a bunch of other beauties sprinkled in. I admire the simplicity of the rooftop garden. Nothing too fancy just a whole lot of potted plants. I love how my guesthouse rooftop garden was arranged by type of plant. That is something I probably would not have done. I’m always mixing and matching plant types on shelves and windowsills, but now I think I’m doing it all wrong. What do you think?
The view looking down from the roof at the courtyard isn’t too bad either, right? I couldn’t have been more lucky with my choice of guesthouse this time around. If you’re staying in Kathmandu, I highly recommend Pilgrims. Don’t be afraid to haggle on the price either, I shaved a few bucks off of each night.
After watching the sunrise and having breakfast, I took yet another nap. I woke up around lunchtime ready to explore Kathmandu by foot. I decided not to take a map since I giggle at tourists squinting at their paper maps in the sun and the last thing I want to be is a hypocrite, but really, Kathmandu is a fast paced city and there is no time or space on the sidewalk to be looking at fine print. Instead of relying on a map, I made sure to be extra observant about where I was going, when I was turning or crossing streets, and any major landmarks or buildings that seemed unique and memorable. After a couple hours of wandering around, I conveniently ended up near the border of thamel again. Just as I heard my belly growling and felt my feet aching, I passed a small sign that said, Garden of Dreams. There was no other hint at what might be beyond the ten foot wall so I figured what’s there to lose and I wandered through the small gate and into an oasis.
After paying a small entrance fee of 200 rupees ($2), I was granted access to a beautiful neo-classical garden that spans over 74,000 square feet. The Garden of Dreams was also known as The Garden of Six Seasons, but I must admit, if it was named Kathmandu Botanical Gardens or something similar I would have passed right by. There is something enchanting about a mysterious high-walled garden sitting right in the middle of crazy Kathmandu, with a name like Garden of Dreams, that encourages the passerby to stop and explore.
The Garden of Dreams sits across the street from the former Royal Palace and was originally thought up by Field Marshall Kaiser Shumsher Jung Bahadur Rana in the 1920s. (Imagine trying to remember that name at a cocktail party.) Apparently upon completion, the Garden of Six Seasons (as it was known then) was considered one of the most sophisticated private gardens of that time, which surprises me none at all. Traditionally Nepal has six seasons: spring, early summer, late summer monsoon season, early autumn, late autumn and winter. The garden was designed by Kishore Narshingh, a prominent architect who designed and constructed Singha Durbar (a massive palace) in 1907. In the 1920s, the Garden of Six Seasons had six pavilions, numerous fountains and sunken pools, verandas, pergolas, urns and birdhouses. He erected six impressive pavilions, each dedicated to one of the six seasons of Nepal. Today, only half of the original garden and three pavilions are in existence, but the renovations pay homage to the beautiful garden of the past.
It was interesting to learn that the Garden of Dreams was restored in cooperation with Austrian Government in the early 21st century. Inside one of the buildings, there is a photo gallery with images of the garden in complete ruins during the nineties and what it looks like today. It was really neat to see the comparison of what looks like an overgrown jungle to the beautifully manicured lawns of the present. Several changes have also been made that lend well to transforming the private Garden of Six Seasons into a space that can be utilized by the public for events and leisure.
While the Garden of Dreams boasts itself as a tourist destination, I must admit not one person recommended I visit or even mentioned the gardens to me. I hadn’t read about it in a guidebook or seen flashy photos of the garden on any brochures or signs and a selfish part of me is glad. When I first arrived at the garden around 2 p.m. there were only five other people on the grounds. I loved wandering around taking photos uninhibited by crowds. As the hours moved on dozens and dozens more people arrived and it overjoyed me to see that all but a couple were native Nepalese. The Garden of Dreams is their garden and knowing it is affordable, accessible, and actually used by Nepali people made me really happy. Seeing all the couples and throngs of friends gathered in the gardens that afternoon had me feeling like I was in on a local secret. I just had to share it with you in hopes that you’ll make it to the Garden of Dreams one day.
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It’s Wednesday! It’s time to procrastinate and daydream about traveling and visiting spaces you’ve never seen before. I must admit, I wasn’t always in love with State College, Pennsylvania. Growing up, I thought of it as a drinkers’ paradise where sports fans would flock on the weekends to watch Penn State football. I was absolutely right about those things, but State College is so much more than that. It’s Happy Valley, an adorable little city nestled between mountains in the middle of beautiful central Pennsylvania. As an adult, I was reintroduced to State College when Katie and her husband bought a home there. They both worked at Penn State University and I had just returned from Thailand when they convinced me (it wasn’t too hard) to move away from Philadelphia and move in with them. I spent the next eight months working as a delivery driver, walking their dog. readjusting to life in America and learning my way around town.
After a couple weeks, I knew the streets better than Katie, but she introduced me to a lot of the goodness on this State College city guide list. State College is a completely different space depending on what time of year you are visiting. During the summer, it is usually calm because many of the students are gone. The city actually halves in population! It goes without saying that summer is my absolute favorite time to visit. In the Fall, during football season, downtown is crazy crowded with students and fans that flock from across the state and nation to watch Penn State football. If you’re a female delivery driver that means stacks of cash and lots of traffic. In the dead of winter, State College is cloudy, icy and cold. I try to avoid winter in State College at all costs, but really, I try to avoid winter everywhere at all costs.
From time to time, Katie and I will indulge our inner travel bug and share past, present and upcoming adventures with you. Today is our first of the feature, pack your bags, you’re headed to Thailand!
If you have never ventured to Bangkok, you probably have a few ideas of what it is like from movies like The Hangover Part II, Dangerous Bangkok, and Into The Sun (plus a trillion other action movies); if you have been fortunate enough to miss those thrillers, picture bright lights, speedy taxis, street food and lots and lots of people. Bangkok is one of those cities that takes you in, spins you around and spits you out. Thankfully there are lovely Thai beaches just a bus ride away and after a week in BKK one needs a nap, a really long nap.
As a traveler, cities aren’t high on my list. I try to stick to small towns and natural attractions; I tend to search for those hidden gems and slices of everyday living, but because I spent the better part of a year in Thailand, I learned to love and embrace Bangkok, a city with more than 7 million inhabitants. I had the opportunity to explore Bangkok multiple times for various reasons like typical tourism, friend’s birthdays, English teaching orientation, family visits and weekend-long shopping sprees. Each time I ventured into the city, I felt more and more comfortable and willing to explore new places and enjoy old hangouts. Bangkok was no longer an enormous scary city (ok, it’s still pretty huge), but rather a transit hub and pit stop that I visited every month while living in Thailand. I began to recognize neighborhoods, streets, parks, particular statues, elevated walkways, and even specific vendors and food carts, it became a city of smaller neighborhoods and much more manageable to wrap my head around.
If you are planning a trip to Thailand and you want to experience the whirlwind that is Bangkok, I present you with the Bangkok City Guide! Do some research before you go (what/where do you want to experience, eat, and sleep?), but for the most part let the city guide you, you’ll probably get lost a couple times, but you’ll also find something mystical that no city guide or website could have warned you about.
- Tuk Tuk – My favorite type of transit for short trips. Tiny, a little bit scary and definitely not safe, tuk tuks are always an adventure. Tuk tuks will get you where you need to go quicker than a taxi, but don’t take them during rush hour. Sitting at exhaust level in standstill traffic will certainly take years off your life (I have no scientific evidence, only experience). Tuk tuk rides are cheap (usually $1-$3) and the fare should be negotiated before you agree to go anywhere. Haggle in increments of 5-10 baht and make sure you and the driver are happy with the agreed upon fare before take off.
- Taxi – I have mixed feelings about taxis in BKK. On one hand, you don’t have to negotiate a fare, on the other hand, half of the drivers have no idea where you’re trying to go. The fare is metered, so you are guaranteed a fair fare, har har. (If a driver doesn’t turn on his meter, ask him to do so, if he refuses, do not get into the cab.) Drivers in BKK don’t have to pass a qualification exam so many of them know some parts of the city, but not all and especially not specific stores, restaurants and hotels. I got into the habit of carrying a city map with me and always (ALWAYS!!) having a card in my wallet with the hotel name and address written in Thai. Half of the time I felt like my driver toured the entire city before taking me to my destination. They are either too shy, greedy or embarrassed to ask for directions or kick you out of the cab. I’ve found tuk tuk drivers simply shout out their questions and directional issues to other drivers en route and resolve any issues rather quickly.
- Bus – I rarely took the bus to get around BKK, but then again, I rarely take the bus in any city. I find buses to be slow, cumbersome and unpredictable. If I’m going to navigate traffic, I want something small like a tuk tuk or taxi and if I want to skip out on rush hour, I’ll squeeze into the skytrain. Bus travel is cheap, usually ranging from 50 cents to a dollar. There are also a number of buses that run 24/7. I shy away from buses because roads could be closed, buses could be out of service, etc. I think the possibility of getting completely lost and turned around and not having anyone to help me through the confusion scares me a little bit (flashback to getting lost in north Philadelphia as an 18-year-old…).
- BTS Skytrain – Is the cleanest, most reliable and also most expensive option. Personally, I loved the skytrain. If you like to eliminate risk in your life, this option is for you. Simply look at the transit map and signage (it’s all in English) and you’ll have no troubles. Just make sure you walk the right direction once you’re off the skytrain (says the gal who walked approximately 1.5 miles in the wrong direction…) A single ride costs anywhere from 50 cents to $1.50 and a day pass is $4. The skytrain is squeaky clean (polar opposite of subways) and air conditioned. During rush hour it is crazy crowded, but fortunately having body odor is considered offensive in Thai culture so getting a stinky pit in your face is far from average.
- MRT Subway – The MRT is similar to the skytrain, quick, clean and reliable. It is also similarly priced and can get really crowded during morning and evening rush hour. There was severe flooding in Thailand during 2011 and the MRT was under construction (because of flooding repairs and also because it is a relatively new transit system). I didn’t take the MRT a lot, but mostly because it was always an afterthought.
- Lub d Bangkok Silom – only the best hostel ever. Seriously. Lub d (meaning ‘sleep well’) is clean, safe and really cool. It’s only two blocks from the skytrain (Chong Nonsi station) and it’s located in Chinatown, which has a lot of great street food and markets and it’s close to the cooking class. Lub d has a variety of rooms so if you’re not comfortable sharing, it’s all good, they have you covered. If you are interested in a common room, each bed has it’s own locker so your stuff is super secure. I love Lub d because they have a 24 hr reception staff (super handy if you’re headed to the airport really early or if your taxi picks you up two hours late and you arrive in Bangkok at 1 a.m.), storage room for your luggage (in case you check out, but want to explore without toting everything around), free wifi and lots of common space (bar, cinema and stellar library). I cannot say enough great things about Lub d. Lub d is pricy as far as Thai hotels go (ranging from $15 for a dorm style room – $28 for a private double), but it is worth every penny.
- U-Baan Guesthouse – quaint and convenient. I liked U-Baan (meaning stay home) for it’s size and location. It’s located close to the skytrain (Wong Wain Yai station) yet it’s out of the hustle and bustle of BKK. There is street food nearby and tons of taxis waiting to take you out on the town. In extremely crowded areas finding a taxi at night can be tough. Prices ranged from $10-$15 per bed.
- Most hotels that I stayed at in Bangkok were great, the two above just stood out to me. Hotels in BKK will cost anywhere from $15-$$$.
There really is no way to go wrong in terms of chow in Thailand. Instead of telling you specific restaurants or carts, I’ll give you a rundown of my favorite dishes while I was abroad. Each of these dishes should cost about $1 on the street.
I was mainly a vegetarian in Thailand so a lot of these dishes are veggie heavy unless you specify. To alter the dish you add the adjective to the end of the name of the dish. To add chicken say ‘Guy’ for instance: ‘Pad Thai Guy,’ with pork say, ‘Moo,’ with only vegetables say, ‘Mang Sow E Rat’ and to make it vegan say, ‘Jeh’ I have spelled the names of each dish the way they’re pronounced, good luck ordering!
- Pad Thai – You’ve all had it (hopefully) it is much different and way better when it’s made on the street in BKK. Squeeze a lime over your dish and enjoy!
- Pad See Uw – Is basically veggie stir fry with a broad noodle tossed with garlic soy sauce. It is delicious and filling.
- Khoa Pad Pak – Is your basic stir fried white rice made with veggies and soy sauce. To add an egg (my favorite way to eat it) say, ‘Khoa Pad Pak Khi Dow.’
- Som Tum – Green papaya salad and a must eat! It’s a spicy salad made with crunchy papaya and peanuts with a sauce made of fish sauce (but it doesn’t taste fishy at all), sour lime, sugar and hot peppers. Say, ‘My Phet’ if you want it less spicy, which I highly recommend (don’t worry you’ll still be sweating).
- Khao Niaow Ma Muang – Mango sticky rice a.k.a the best dessert ever. This dessert is delicious heaven, but it is sweet and heavy so make sure you find someone to share it with.
A couple tips:
- Order your drinks without ice. The ice is often made with dirty water and/or is transported in unsanitary ways (read: block of ice carried on a shirtless man’s back) By ordering your drink without ice you have a better chance of staying healthy in Thailand.
- Visit places that you think you know, like 7/11. You’ll be surprised and delighted by all the differences.
- Try crazy looking fruits, I assure you that they are all delicious even if you have no idea what you just ate.
- Point, smile, laugh and pay. You may order your new favorite dish or you might accidentally get a sad looking omelet on top of white rice.
- Eat the bugs!! I did and I lived. You only live once and who knows, in ten years we might all be eating bugs.
- Silom Thai Cooking School – The experience I had at Silom is so near and dear to me. Katie (shout out to the other half of live seasoned!) came to visit me in Thailand and this was one of our favorite activities. Spending a few hours learning a new skill with her was a lot of fun and something I will never forget. That single experience has tempted me to take a cooking class whenever I travel, but I can never seem to find one so reasonably priced and educational. The class ($30 per person) included a market tour (of a nearby veggie market) and an explanation of essential to Thai cooking ingredients. After the market tour, you spend four hours creating six different Thai dishes and they send you home with a cookbook! Each student sits on the floor with their own cutting board and ingredient basket and prepares the meal while the chef explains the how and the what of it all. Then you take your ingredients to your individual wok and burner to prepare the dish! The class was run smoothly with lots of instruction, explanation and true to Thai culture lots of jokes and smiles. Culture and cuisine are my two favorite aspects of travel and this cooking class combines both. Double score!
- Pak Khlong Talat (flower market) – Take a quick trip here in the early morning. It’s more of a wholesaler experience so I didn’t buy anything, but the sheer number of flowers and vendors is truly amazing and beautiful. This market won’t take up a bunch of your time so it is definitely worth seeing. Don’t bother visiting after 10 a.m. though, it quiets down a lot and you won’t think it’s that impressive.
- Chatuchak (weekend market) – If you like shopping, even a little bit, you must take a trip to the weekend market. The market is 27 acres of stalls (over 15,000!) so you can really find a.n.y.t.h.i.n.g. Lots of folks are overwhelmed by the market because of the tight spaces, large crowds, and strange smells, but that was all part of the charm for me. My advice? Keep your wallet close, haggle a lot, and venture deep into the center of the market. You’ll find that there are lots of different sections in the market, anything from spice collections, home goods, handmade designer clothes, pets (cue strange smells), books and souvenirs. There is so much to take in (and buy!), which is why I went to the market five times while I lived in Thailand! I still regret not buying the big ziplock baggie of saffron for $5. I would mention stalls and food stands to check out, but really that is part of the adventure of it all and who knows, maybe you’ll find something even tastier than I did!
- Soi Cowboy – If you want to drink and dance, go to Soi Cowboy. It is definitely pricier than most clubs and bars in Bangkok, but it is also more upstanding. You probably won’t get hit on by prostitutes here (unfortunately that is the reality of many nightclubs in Bangkok) and you’ll go home with your wallet. That comes with a price though, these clubs charge entrance fees and they are packed to the gills. The music is usually electronic or a live DJ and you might find that you (and your American friends) are one of the few who are dancing! No lie, we had to
encouragebeg and plead with the club goers squeezed in beside us to dance so that we had room to move around!
- Grand Palace – If you’re the type to check out amazing architecture than head over to the Grand Palace! It was particularly hot and
veryVERY crowded when we went so I can’t say I had the best time. It’s worth visiting if you like that type of thing though!
- People watching – Everywhere and anywhere. The city is the best place to pick a seat and take it all in. I love people watching and BKK provides some interesting sights.
- Khaosan Road – You’ll probably hear about Khaosan. My advice is to stay far away. In my opinion, it’s a pretty trashy touristy street, not much culture or authenticity to be found. That being said, since lots of tourists frequent Khaosan there are a plethora of delicious restaurants in the area, especially Ethos Vegetarian Restaurant. Ethos has a variety of healthy vegetarian options, which can sometimes be hard to find on street carts.
Man this post made me really miss Thailand and that sweet penguin watch that I found at Chatuchak. I hope you enjoyed hearing a big about Bangkok and its endless possibilities. Have you been? Have anything specific you’d like to share? Let us know!